CR Factory
Cartier · Collection

Tank Must

Two sizes, five references, one rectangle. The Must is the cheapest way into a Tank and the least forgiving one, because a flat case makes every millimeter visible.

2Sizes
5References
QuartzMovement
Frames pendingCR · 2026
MustPhotographs of this line are being shot — the layout below is final
In short

What is the Cartier Tank Must, and which size should I take?

The Tank Must is the flat rectangular Cartier, made in 22 mm and 25.5 mm case widths. Both run quartz because the reference does, and that is what keeps the case thin. The 22 mm reads as a dress watch on a 6 to 7 inch wrist; 25.5 mm is the everyday size for most men. Five references are quoted here from $329, shipping included. Every watch is photographed on a caliper before dispatch, because a Must that has been made thicker reads wrong across a room.

The shape of the line

A rectangle that has to stay flat

The Tank is not judged on its dial. It is judged on the two millimeters of steel you see when the watch is lying on a table: the case band, the bezel line and the height of the crown. The Must keeps a flat profile, so a case that has been made thicker to fit a cheaper movement reads as wrong from across a room, before anyone looks at the printing.

The second tell is the cabochon. On the reference it is a small blue dome, set at a specific height, with a clean edge where it meets the crown. On a weak copy it is either flat, pale, or sitting proud like a bead. That is a two-second check and it is the one most buyers skip.

Everything else, from the weight of the Roman numerals to the hairline minute track and the frosting along the crystal edge, is settled in a photograph at two or three times life size. That is what the QC set on this page is for, and it is taken on the actual watch rather than pulled from a catalog.

On the photographs

We do not have our own frames for this line yet, and we will not fill the space with another seller's photograph. The three frames we shoot on every Must (case in profile, dial at 2x, codes) are listed below.

All Cartier
The references

Three references, two sizes

All Cartier
What to compare

Six things decide a Tank Must

In the order they are noticed, not the order a spec sheet lists them.

01

Case thickness

The number that decides whether the watch reads as a Tank or as a small brick. We measure it on the watch we ship and send the figure with the photographs.

02

Cabochon

Color, height and the edge where it meets the crown. Flat, pale or proud are the three ways this goes wrong.

03

Roman numeral weight

The numerals should print heavy and even, with the serifs intact at the corners. Thin printing is the first thing that looks cheap under magnification.

04

Bezel line

A single clean step from bezel to case band. A soft or doubled line means the case was polished after assembly.

05

Crystal edge

The reference has a slight frosting where the glass meets the bezel. A fully polished edge flattens the dial under light.

06

Bracelet and strap join

On the bracelet, the first link should meet the case with no daylight. On the leather, the stitching should be tight and even at the lug.

Reference table

Sizes and movements

Only figures the supply line states. Anything unconfirmed is left out rather than filled in.

ReferenceCaseMovementBraceletPrice
WSTA005122 mm steelHigh-grade quartzSteel bracelet$329
WSTA005225.5 mm steelHigh-grade quartzSteel bracelet$349
WSTA004025.5 mm steelHigh-grade quartzSteel or leather, per order$339
WSTA004125.5 mm steelHigh-grade quartzSteel or leather, per order$339
WSTA004225.5 mm steelHigh-grade quartzSteel or leather, per order$349

The reference is a quartz watch, so this is not a case of a quartz movement standing in for something better. It is the movement the watch was designed around.

Checked on 2026-10-19 · reference numbers from dealer listings · prices include shipping · sample figures for layout review

Supply lines

One line builds the Tank

Unlike Santos, the Tank is not a competitive build. That shortens the question to whether this build is right, not which workshop to choose.

LineWhat it covers hereWhere it standsWe quote it when
AF / CREvery Tank reference on this pageThe only line we have found listing the Must in both sizesAlways, for this family
BVSantos case and bracelet workDoes not list Tank referencesNot quoted here
GFSantos, balanced finishDoes not list Tank referencesNot quoted here
Before dispatch

What we photograph on every Tank

Profile

Case on a caliper, then from the side, so thickness and the cabochon height are both in one frame.

Dial

Straight on at two times life size. The numerals and the minute track are the parts a loupe would be used for.

Codes

Tag, warranty card and case back side by side. Three matching codes or the watch goes back to the line.

QC sets published so far →

Questions

Tank Must, answered

Which size should I take?

22 mm reads as a dress watch on a 6 to 7 inch wrist and almost disappears under a cuff. 25.5 mm is the safer everyday size for most men and for women who want a watch with presence. If you are between them, send a wrist photo next to a coin and we will say which we would take.

Is a quartz Tank acceptable?

The reference itself is quartz, so there is nothing to apologize for. The case was designed around a thin movement, and thickness is the first thing we check.

Steel bracelet or leather strap?

The bracelet suits daily wear and is the harder of the two to get right, because the end links have to meet the case cleanly. Leather is more forgiving and cheaper to replace. We stock both and swap at no charge before dispatch.

Is the cabochon real stone?

Synthetic sapphire, as on the reference. What we check is color and height, not the certificate.

Can I add the box?

Yes. The Cartier box and papers are $80 and are photographed with the watch, so you see the box you are getting rather than a library image.

How long does it take?

Two to four days to confirm the batch, then seven to twelve days in transit. QC photographs arrive before dispatch, and that is the point where you can still stop the order.

Keep looking

Other Cartier lines